Very much towards a Pictorialist offering.
35mm, FP4, Rodinal, with digital sepia for this place.
(foldingup.wordpress.com)
Very much towards a Pictorialist offering.
35mm, FP4, Rodinal, with digital sepia for this place.
(foldingup.wordpress.com)
I saw this small courtyard and thought it looked timeless.
Black and white film, scanned. (FP4, Rodinal 1+50)
Further examples of my occasional film work – http://foldingup.wordpress.com/
—-Stephen—–
This using my Baldix folding camera. Ilford FP4, developed in Rodinal and scanned.
I went out for the day with a fellow photographer and decided I should use my folding camera. Unfortunately, we had to cut the trip short as water was dripping from the trees above us (making it unsuitable to use the folder) and my friend really shouldn’t have been out, having a cold which started to get considerably worse in the cold damp air.
Of the two pictures I took, this one I really liked as it came out as I envisaged it (with acknowledgement to Hiroshi Sugimoto, one of my photographic heroes).
——-Stephen——-
The stuff of imagination?
Originals taken with Rollei SL66 medium format camera on slide film. In my naivety I scanned them with too high a dpi/ppi and each file is over 600Mbytes, a wee bit too big to manipulate easily on my humble pc.
——–Stephen——–
I’ve created myself a new blog. To a certain extent completely OTT but I felt it needed to be done for my thinking process. Essentially, the new blog is restricted to a small project that I’ve started, in which I will be using my two classic folding cameras – a Balda and a Voightlander Bessa 1. Both are medium format cameras using 120 film. (12 shots on the Balda and 8 on the Bessa!)
http://foldingup.wordpress.com
——-Stephen——–
Some time ago I stuck my hand up at a local club auction and bought a couple of folding cameras. One a “Baldix” with a 75mm f3.5 Ennagon lens and Prontor-S shutter. As you’ll guess, with a 75mm lens it takes 120 film (6×6 – 2 1/4 square). There’s a fair bit of rubbing to the coating on the lens but I think that will add to the quality of the photographs it will produce.
I’ve only had a chance to put a single film through, but this was my favourite.
Developed and then negative scanned and minimal wiggly bits in PS.
I’m considering doing a little project with this and the other camera, a Voightlander Bessa 1 but it takes a bit of impetus/get up and go to get the film and get on with it.
——-Stephen———
Every so often I like to have a play with pinhole photography – not with the commercially available holes and attachments but things I make myself. I’ve had a crack at doing some with my digital camera, but to be honest, it’s more trouble than it’s worth. So I’ve tended to stick with film.
My original objective was to create a gizzmo that would fit on the front of my Rollei in such a way that I could attach/detach at will – thus I could drop a pinhole shot into the middle of a film if I wanted. I wanted use my Rollei as it has a significant advantage because using the waist level finder and a dark cloth over my head I can just about see the image of the subject I’m taking reasonably well.
As you may know, in theory, the pinhole can be any distance from the film plane, the further away the larger the image of the subject but the longer the exposure needs to be. Okay in theory, but practice? I had to give it a try. So I put a pinhole at the front of a parcel tube which I then attached to the front of my camera.
In the picture, the front of the ‘lens’ is supported by a lighting stand with a catapult taped to the top to give a u-shaped support. Trying to maintain the tube/camera/film plain was a real nightmare.
A couple of examples of the output.
‘Standard’ Pinhole to Film Distance
‘Telephoto’ Pinhole to Film Distance
Standard – the arrow points to the ‘target’
I’ll leave you to consider the results, but the tube clearly exhibits a lack of contrast (in part I believe due to scatter in the tube). Also the Church picture is suffering from a slight light leak or glare.
I’m sorry I can’t give you details of exposure – I calculate each exposure using a meter and conversion tables, but the long tube ones will be pushing towards 15 to 20 minutes.
It’s unlikely that I will be making any more attempts, it’s just too much faffing about – trying to line things up, especially on uneven ground – the slightest out of alignment and the image quality/light level drops significantly.
———–Stephen———-